extruder
[clinton/wilson.git] / doc / how-to-build.txt
1 Reprap Wilson Assembly Guide
2 Written by Martin Rice <mrice411@gmail.com>
3
4 1. Assemble the Y axis (part 1)
5
6 1.1 Gather the following parts
7
8 a. The two M10 threaded rods
9 b. The Y axis smooth rods
10 c. The plastic Y end pieces (2)
11 d. The two plastic frame brace supports
12 e. 12 M10 nuts and washers
13 f. Four linear bearings (LM8UU)
14
15 1.2 Hardware Assembly
16
17 * Slide a brace support onto each threaded rod. On each side of the
18 supports, put a washer, a nut, another nut and another washer (in
19 that order).
20 * Next, slide two two Y end pieces over the ends of the threaded rods.
21 Place a washer then nut on each end.
22
23 1.3 Tightening the Y axis
24
25 * Start at one end (either Y motor or Y idler end) and tighten the two
26 nuts against the end so that the threaded rod is flush with the outside
27 of the nut. Tighten both sides of the first end while everything else
28 is loose along the threaded rods. Use two wrenches to tighten the nuts
29 against the end until snug (tight, but don't compress enough to deform
30 or break the plastic).
31 * Place two linear bearings on each Y axis smooth rod.
32 * Next, with the other Y end still loosely attached, place the two Y axis
33 smooth rods across the top and fit into the grooves along the top of
34 the ends.
35 * Press down on the corners (not in the middle of the rods!) to seat the
36 rods into the Y ends.
37 * Tighten one corner of the remaining end.
38 * Now take a moment to measure with a ruler between the end posts of the
39 tightened side. (355mm for reference).
40 * Flip the assembly around and repeat the measurement as you tighten the
41 remaining corner (tighten it just a little first, then measure. If the
42 distance is a little less than the first side, tighten the inner nut
43 outward toward the outer nut, if the distance is a little more than the
44 first side, then tighten the outer nut toward the inner one. Try to get
45 the two sides as close to the same distance as possible. This will help
46 ensure your y axis bearings don't experience any binding forces).
47 * Repeat the measurement on the first side and check that all corners are
48 nice and snug. Take your time on this step, it may require a couple
49 iterations to get the axis square.
50
51 1.4 Prep the Print Bed
52
53 While the Y axis assembly is free, it is a good time to prepare the print
54 bed which you will attach later.
55
56 Gather the following materials
57
58 a. The Y axis assembly you just completed
59 b. The wood print bed support
60 c. The heat bed
61 d. The four linear bearing holders
62 e. Eight miniature zip ties
63
64
65 * Place the heat bed circuitboard over the wood bed and mark the four
66 corner locations with a pencil.
67 * Put the heat bed circuitboard aside and place the four linear bearing
68 holders over the linear bearings along the Y axis rods.
69 * Turn the Y axis assembly over so that the smooth rods (and bearing
70 holders) are against the wood print bed surface.
71 * Align the front edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end idler
72 with a line that is 80mm from the front edge of the bed.
73 * Align the back edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end motor
74 mount with a line that is approx 10mm from the back edge of the bed.
75 * Mark all the holes for the bearing holders with a pencil.
76 * Remove the wood print bed and drill all the holes you marked with a 5mm
77 drill bit. (You want the holes a little over-sized so that there is
78 some room for the screws to "float" when you attach the bed).
79 * Attach the linear bearing holders to the Y axis linear bearings with
80 zip ties.
81
82 Set the prepared wood print bed aside.
83
84 2. Assemble the Frame (part 1)
85
86 2.1 Gather the following parts
87
88 a. The two side pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the longer ones,
89 generally)
90 b. One of the two horizontal pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the
91 shorter ones, generally)
92 c. 22 T-slot nuts
93 d. 14 M5 x 8mm screws
94 e. The plastic Z motor holders (2)
95 f. The plastic rear frame brackets (2)
96
97 2.2 Hardware Assembly
98
99 * Slide 6 T-nuts into one side of the shorter extrusion (this wlll be the
100 bottom piece of the frame).
101 * Turn the extrusion over (being careful not to let the nuts slide out
102 that you just put in) and slide 8 more nuts into the opposite side that
103 you begain with.
104 * Place the two remaining extrusions to the sides of the first, and slide
105 two T nuts into each on the side facing up.
106 * Get the two corner braces and place one over each corner. Line up the
107 two nuts on each extrusion and attach the braces with a total of 8 M5
108 screws. Note that the longer extrusions (the "sides" of the frame)
109 should cover the ends of the bottom extrusion piece. Leave the screws
110 loose until all 8 are started. Stand the frame "upright" to ensure the
111 sides are slid down flush with the bottom and alternately tighten until
112 all the screws are tight.
113 * Rotate the frame so the other side is facing you and put it back flat
114 on your work surface.
115 * Slide two more T nuts into each side piece and attach the motor mounts
116 the same way you did the rear brackets, using 6 more M5 screws.
117 * You should have four T nuts sliding around between the lower corners,
118 which will be used to attach the Y axis to the frame in the next step.
119
120
121 3. Mount the Y axis to the frame
122
123 3.1 The following parts are used during this step:
124
125 a. The partially-assembled Y axis from step 1.
126 b. The partially assembled frame from step 2.
127 c. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
128
129 3.2 Mounting the Y axis
130
131 * Place the Y axis over the frame so that the Y motor end is toward the
132 rear, and the Z motor brackets are toward the front.
133 * Slide the Y axis along the threaded rods so that there is ** 135mm **
134 from the Y motor end and the frame braces
135 * Tighten the nuts on the first side finger-tight against the frame brace
136 then turn the assembly around and repeat on the other side. Measure a
137 couple times to make sure the distance from the y motor end to the frame
138 braces is the same on each corner. Next slide the Y axis assembly left
139 or right along the lower frame extrusion so that there is ** 50mm **
140 from the upright extrusion to the inner edge of the frame brace on the
141 "left" side of the printer (as viewed with the Y axis idler toward you).
142 * Tighten the frame braces using 8 M5 screws into the T slot nuts that
143 are alread in the lower frame extrusion. Finish tightening the nuts of
144 the threaded rod against the braces, double-checking that the distance
145 from the Y end to the braces is the same on each side. A convenient
146 place to measure this after the nuts are snug is from the inside of the
147 nuts (approx 116mm).
148
149 4. Assemble the X axis (part 1)
150
151 4.1 Gather the following parts:
152
153 a. The two plastic X end pieces ("motor" and "idler")
154 b. Eight linear bearings (LM8UU)
155 c. The two X axis smooth rods
156 d. Two M5 nuts
157
158 4.2 Hardware Assembly
159
160 * Press two linear bearings into each X end.
161 * Using pliers, gently press an M5 nut into the provided insert in each
162 end.
163 * Place two linear bearings on each of the smooth rods.
164 * Press each X end onto the pair of smooth rods, being sure to orient
165 them so that the M5 nuts are on the same side of the rods.
166
167 5. Assembling the frame (part 2)
168
169 5.1 Gather the following:
170
171 a. The two upper Z axis mounts.
172 b. The remaining piece of aluminum extrusion (the top bar)
173 c. Four t-slot nuts
174 d. Five more t-slot nuts if you are going to use the filament holder
175 and SMART electronics mount.
176 e. Four M5 x 8mm screws
177
178 5.2
179
180 * Insert two t-slot nuts into the top side of the aluminum extrusion.
181 * If you will be using the filament holder, rotate the extrusion 90
182 degrees and insert two more t-slot nuts into the top side.
183 * Insert the remaining t-slot nuts into the side opposite from the one
184 you started with.
185
186 5.3
187
188 * Attach the upper Z axis mounts to the ends of the extrusion, tightening
189 the M5 nuts just until snug. Be sure to keep the two t slot nuts for
190 the filament holder on the "top" and the t slot nuts for the SMART
191 electronics mount and filament holder to the back (side away from the
192 rod holders).
193
194 6. Mounting the X axis to the Z axis
195
196 6.1 Gather the following
197
198 a. The partialy assembled frame from step 3.
199 b. The X axis assembly from step 4.
200 c. The upper frame assembly from step 5.
201 d. The remaining two smooth rods
202 e. The Z axis threaded rods (M5)
203 f. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
204 g. Eight M3 x 10mm screws (washers recommended)
205 h. Two Z axis couplers (either 5mm x 5mm couplers or 3/16" vinyl tubing)
206 i. Eight t-slot nuts
207 j. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
208
209 6.2 Mounting the X axis onto the frame.
210
211 * Attach the two Z axis motors to the motor mounts using four M3 x 10mm
212 screws each. Place the z axis couplers on each motor shaft.
213 * Press each Z axis smooth rod firmly down into the rod holder of each motor
214 mount, being careful to keep the rods straight up and down to avoid
215 breaking the mounts.
216 * Gently slide the X axis assembly down over the Z axis rods. If the linear
217 bearings in each X end do not align with the Z axis rods, remove the X
218 axis assembly and gently push/pull the two ends to get the distance right.
219 The motor end of the X axis assembly should be on your left (with the Y
220 idler end toward you).
221 * Insert two t-slot nuts into both the front and back sides of each end (8
222 total). You may want to hold the frame assembly on your lap with the
223 upright extensions horizontally at the point, so that the t slot nuts
224 don't slide down to the botttom of the frame. If they do, simply place
225 your hands over the tops of the extrusions, keeping the z axis smooth
226 rods supported, and tip the assembly over to slide the nuts back toward
227 the top.
228 * Place the upper frame assembly on the frame. Fit the tops of the z axis
229 smooth rods into the rod holders.
230 * Secure the top of the frame using 8 M5 x 8mm screws. Be sure to press
231 the top of the frame down securely onto the vertical extrusions, and
232 then press inward on each top corner to seat the upper extrusion against
233 the sides.
234 * With the X axis assembly resting at the bottom of the Z axis smooth
235 rods, thread the z axis threaded rods down through the nut in each X
236 end until the threaded rods rest against the Z axis motor shafts.
237 * Tighten the z axis couplers.
238
239 7. Completing the Frame Assembly
240
241 7.1 Mount X and Y motors
242
243 * In addition to the frame from the previous step, gather the following:
244
245 a. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
246 b. Two belt pulleys
247 c. The two idler bearings and mounts
248 d. Three M3 x 10mm screws
249 e. Three M3 x 14mm screws
250 f. Two screws with lock nuts for mounting the belt idlers (probably
251 M3 x 25mm)
252
253 * Mount the motors to the X and Y axis motor mounts using three screws
254 each.
255 * Fit a pulley on each motor shaft and tighten the grub screws to keep
256 them secure.
257 * Snap an idler bearing into each pair of plastic bearing guides, then
258 attach the idlers to the opposite ends of the X and Y axis from where
259 you attached the motors. Don't overtighten the screws that hold on
260 the idlers.
261
262 7.2 Attach print bed
263
264 * You will need:
265
266 a. The print bed you prepared earlier.
267 b. Eight M3 x 14mm screws and an equal number of M3 nuts and washers.
268
269 * Mount the print bed to the Y axis bearing holders. The washer should
270 go on the screw first, which should go downward through the wood print
271 bed and bearing holder, and secured with a nut. Attach each screw only
272 loosely first, then check that the bed slides smoothly back and forth
273 along the Y axis. Tighten the nuts a little at a time until secure.
274
275 7.3 Attach the X carriage.
276
277 * You will need:
278
279 a. The printed X carriage
280 b. Eight miniature zip ties
281
282 * Attach the X carriage with the belt guide "up" and with the flat
283 surface (where you will attach the extruder) toward the front of the
284 printer (the Y idler end).
285
286 7.4 Attach Belts
287
288 * You will need:
289
290 a. The X axis drive belt.
291 b. The Y axis drive belt.
292 c. The Y belt holder.
293 d. Two M3 x 20mm screws and nuts.
294 e. 8 Miniature zip ties.
295
296 * Thread the X axis belt into place and secure with four zip ties (two
297 on each side of the extruder, trimmed short after tight).
298 * Turn the printer over or have a friend hold it upside down, being
299 careful not to lift by or put pressure on the X axis rods.
300 * Thread the Y axis belt into place. Hold the belt tight and use as a
301 guide for placing the Y belt holder. The leading edge of the belt
302 holder should be approximately in the middle of the wood print bed.
303 * Mark the holes for the Y belt holder, then set the holder and belt
304 aside and drill the two holes with a 4-5mm hand drill.
305 * Attach the Y belt holder with the head of the screws to the bottom,
306 with a washer and nut on the wood side.
307
308 7.5 Attach accessory mounts
309
310 * You will need:
311 a. Filament holder mounts
312 b. SMART display mounts
313 c. M5 x 8mm screws
314
315
316 7.6 Attach heat bed
317
318 * You will need:
319
320 a. The heat bed circuitboard
321 b. Four M3 x 25mm screws and locknuts
322 c. Four springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
323
324 * This is a good time to attach the heat bed thermistor if you have not
325 already done so. Depending on your heat bed and thermistor, the most
326 likely procedure here is to secure the thermistor to the middle of the
327 bottom-side of the heat bed with a strip of Kapton tape.
328 * Attach the heat bed with a screw through each corner, with the head of
329 the screw up, down through the heat bed, through a spring, then through
330 the wood print bed, and into a lock nut. Compress the springs about
331 halfway (you will adjust each corner later to level the bed more
332 precisely).
333
334 7.7 Attach Limit Switches
335
336 * You will need:
337
338 a. Three micro limit switches
339 b. The Z axis limit switch mount
340 c. One T-slot nut and M5 x 8mm screw
341 c. M2 x 16mm screws and nuts as needed (up to 6 each)
342
343 * If your limit switches do not already have wires attached, do that
344 now. You will need approximately 45cm (18") of wire on each switch
345 (depending on where you locate the electronics).
346
347 * Slide a T nut into the outer side of the left upright piece from
348 the bottom. Attach the Z endstop holder with a M5 x 8 screw.
349
350 8. Extruder Assembly and Mounting
351
352 8.1 Assemble the Extruder
353
354 * You will need:
355
356 a. The extruder body and idler.
357 b. The hot end.
358 c. The M8 Hobbed bolt
359 d. Two M8 nuts (or one M8 locknut), and washers (probably 4).
360 e. Two springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
361 f. The M8 x 20mm smooth rod (or M8 x 20mm grub screw)
362 g. Three 608 bearings
363 h. Two M3 x 60mm screws
364 i. The larger extruder gear.
365 j. Three M3 x 30mm screws
366 k. Five M3 nuts
367
368 * If your hot end was not previously assembled (heater resistor and
369 thermistor), do that now. Follow the instructions for your particular
370 hot end.
371 * Slide the M8 x 20mm shaft through a 608 ball bearing then push this
372 assembly inside the extruder idler. You may have to use pliers to snap
373 the shaft into place. Apply even pressure on top of the shaft/bearing
374 to avoid cracking the plastic idler.
375 * Insert an M3 nut into the inner recess provided on the idler. Use
376 pliers or a hot iron to fix the nut into place (be careful not to break
377 the idler in the process).
378 * Thread an M3 x 30mm screw through the outer side of the idler on the
379 side you just inserted the nut, just until the screw starts into the
380 nut.
381 * Fix the idler assembly to the Wade Body Extruder and then finish
382 screwing the M3 x 30 bolt all the way through the fulcrum support.
383
384 * Slide the Wade Big Gear through the hobbed bolt so that the hex head of
385 the bolt is secured in the recess of the big gear. Slide 3-5 M8 washers
386 onto the bolt (they go between the gear and the body of the extruder to
387 provide spacing) followed by one 608 bearing. Insert the bolt into the
388 extruder body, securing the bearing in the hole provided. Add another
389 608 bearing on the loose end of the bolt, followed by another M8 washer
390 and locknut. Tighten the lock nut just enough to keep the hobbed bolt
391 in place; it should spin freely.
392
393 * Insert two M3 nuts in their slots on the top of the extruder body.
394 Place an washer, then spring, then another washer on each M3 x 60mm
395 screw, then thread the screws through the slots of the idler and into
396 the nuts you inserted in the extruder body. Tighten the screws until
397 the springs are well compressed (this keeps tension on the printer
398 filament). If either spring is too short (or the bolts are too long)
399 to compress properly, remove the bolt and place an M3 nut on first
400 (before the washer/springs).
401
402 * Insert the hot end into the 16mm hold on the bottom of the extruder.
403
404 * Secure the hot end to the extruder body by threading in two M3 x 30mm
405 screws through the front of the extruder (they will pinch the sides of
406 the hot end on their way through the plastic body). Secure with M3
407 nuts and tighten well (it is critical that the hot end be rigid and
408 not wobbly).
409
410 8.2 Connecting extruder to X-axis
411
412 * You will need:
413
414 a. Extruder assembly
415 b. Wade Small Gear
416 c. One NEMA 17 motor
417 d. The plastic fan duct.
418 e. One 40mm x 40mm x 10mm fan.
419 f. Four M4 x 25 mm screws
420 g. Four M4 nuts
421 h. One M3 x 20mm screw
422 i. Seven M3 x 14mm screws
423 j. Three M3 washers
424 k. One M3 x 8mm screw
425 l. Five M3 nuts
426 m. One M3 locknut
427
428 * Insert two M4 nuts in the bottom of the extruder body in the slots
429 provided. Use pliers to gently press the nuts into the plastic, or
430 press them in with the tip of a hot soldering iron if the holes are
431 too tight.
432 * Insert two M4 nuts into the slots on the sides of the extruder body.
433 * The extruder is held to the X carriage by the four M4 x 25mm screws.
434 Insert the four screws through the back of the X carriage and then
435 slide on the extruder assembly (thread the top two screws into the
436 nuts you just inserted). Then screw the two lower M4 nuts into
437 place and tighten all four screws.
438 * Insert an M3 nut into the slot on the small gear. Use pliers or a hot
439 iron to press into place if necessary.
440 * Slide the small gear onto the shaft of the NEMA 17 motor. If
441 necessary, drill out the shaft hole on the small gear with a 5mm drill
442 bit.
443 * Insert the M3 x 8mm screw and tighten against the shaft of the motor.
444 * Place the motor assembly against the Wade Extruder Body (supply wires
445 upwards). Insert three M3x14 mm screws and three Ø3 mm washers without
446 tightening. Slide the motor assembly against the Wade Big Gear and
447 tighten the screws to hold the motor secure.
448 * Attach the 40mm fan to the fan duct using four M3 x 14mm screws and
449 M3 nuts. Make sure the fan is oriented so that airflow is going toward
450 the duct (usually this means the side of the fan with a label on it
451 will be against the fan duct).
452 * Fix the Fan Duct assembly on the Wade Extruder Body with an M3 30mm
453 screw and an M3 lock nut. Do not overtighten.
454
455 8.3 Install glass bed
456
457 * Now is a good time to install the glass bed. Place the glass on top
458 of the heat bed and secure with four paper-binder clips. If the X axis
459 is too low, you may have to manually turn the two Z axis rods to lift
460 it high enough so that the glass will fit underneat the hot end nozzle.
461
462 9. Connect the Electronics
463
464 * You will need:
465
466 a. The electronics controller of your choice (e.g. RAMPS)
467 b. The power supply
468 c. SMART display (optional)
469
470