images of assembly
[clinton/wilson.git] / doc / how-to-build.txt
1 Reprap Wilson Assembly Guide
2 Written by Martin Rice <mrice411@gmail.com>
3
4 + For the latest version of this document, check the "docs" folder at +
5 + https://github.com/mjrice/wilson +
6 + +
7 + Please refer to the wilson-bom spreedsheet for a comprehensive list of +
8 + parts needed before you begin. +
9 + +
10 + You will find photos of most of the steps below indexed by the step +
11 + number, located in the images/ folder. +
12
13 1. Assemble the Y axis (part 1)
14
15 1.1 Gather the following parts
16
17 a. The two M10 threaded rods
18 b. The Y axis smooth rods
19 c. The plastic Y end pieces (2)
20 d. The two plastic frame brace supports
21 e. 12 M10 nuts and washers
22 f. Four linear bearings (LM8UU)
23
24 1.2 Hardware Assembly
25
26 * Slide a brace support onto each threaded rod. On each side of the
27 supports, put a washer, a nut, another nut and another washer (in
28 that order).
29 * Next, slide two two Y end pieces over the ends of the threaded rods.
30 Place a washer then nut on each end.
31
32 1.3 Tightening the Y axis
33
34 * Start at one end (either Y motor or Y idler end) and tighten the two
35 nuts against the end so that the threaded rod is flush with the outside
36 of the nut. Tighten both sides of the first end while everything else
37 is loose along the threaded rods. Use two wrenches to tighten the nuts
38 against the end until snug (tight, but don't compress enough to deform
39 or break the plastic).
40 * Place two linear bearings on each Y axis smooth rod.
41 * Next, with the other Y end still loosely attached, place the two Y axis
42 smooth rods across the top and fit into the grooves along the top of
43 the ends.
44 * Press down on the corners (not in the middle of the rods!) to seat the
45 rods into the Y ends.
46 * Tighten one corner of the remaining end.
47 * Now take a moment to measure with a ruler between the end posts of the
48 tightened side. (355mm for reference).
49 * Flip the assembly around and repeat the measurement as you tighten the
50 remaining corner (tighten it just a little first, then measure. If the
51 distance is a little less than the first side, tighten the inner nut
52 outward toward the outer nut, if the distance is a little more than the
53 first side, then tighten the outer nut toward the inner one. Try to get
54 the two sides as close to the same distance as possible. This will help
55 ensure your y axis bearings don't experience any binding forces).
56 * Repeat the measurement on the first side and check that all corners are
57 nice and snug. Take your time on this step, it may require a couple
58 iterations to get the axis square.
59
60 1.4 Prep the Print Bed
61
62 While the Y axis assembly is free, it is a good time to prepare the print
63 bed which you will attach later.
64
65 Gather the following materials
66
67 a. The Y axis assembly you just completed
68 b. The wood print bed support
69 c. The heat bed
70 d. The four linear bearing holders
71 e. Eight miniature zip ties
72
73 * Place the heat bed circuitboard over the wood bed and mark the four
74 corner locations with a pencil.
75 * Put the heat bed circuitboard aside and place the four linear bearing
76 holders over the linear bearings along the Y axis rods.
77 * Turn the Y axis assembly over so that the smooth rods (and bearing
78 holders) are against the wood print bed surface.
79 * Align the front edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end idler
80 with a line that is 80mm from the front edge of the bed.
81 * Align the back edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end motor
82 mount with a line that is approx 10mm from the back edge of the bed.
83 * Mark all the holes for the bearing holders with a pencil.
84 * Remove the wood print bed and drill all the holes you marked with a 5mm
85 drill bit. (You want the holes a little over-sized so that there is
86 some room for the screws to "float" when you attach the bed).
87 * Attach the linear bearing holders to the Y axis linear bearings with
88 zip ties.
89
90 Set the prepared wood print bed aside.
91
92 2. Assemble the Frame (part 1)
93
94 2.1 Gather the following parts
95
96 a. The two side pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the longer ones,
97 generally)
98 b. One of the two horizontal pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the
99 shorter ones, generally)
100 c. 22 T-slot nuts
101 d. 14 M5 x 8mm screws
102 e. The plastic Z motor holders (2)
103 f. The plastic rear frame brackets (2)
104
105 2.2 Hardware Assembly
106
107 * Slide 6 T-nuts into one side of the shorter extrusion (this wlll be the
108 bottom piece of the frame).
109 * Turn the extrusion over (being careful not to let the nuts slide out
110 that you just put in) and slide 8 more nuts into the opposite side that
111 you begain with.
112 * Place the two remaining extrusions to the sides of the first, and slide
113 two T nuts into each on the side facing up.
114 * Get the two corner braces and place one over each corner. Line up the
115 two nuts on each extrusion and attach the braces with a total of 8 M5
116 screws. Note that the longer extrusions (the "sides" of the frame)
117 should cover the ends of the bottom extrusion piece. Leave the screws
118 loose until all 8 are started.
119 * Stand the frame "upright" to ensure the sides are slid down flush with
120 the bottom and alternately tighten until all the screws are tight.
121 * Rotate the frame so the other side is facing you and put it back flat
122 on your work surface.
123 * Slide two more T nuts into each side piece and attach the motor mounts
124 the same way you did the rear brackets, using 6 more M5 screws.
125 * You should have four T nuts sliding around between the lower corners,
126 which will be used to attach the Y axis to the frame in the next step.
127
128
129 3. Mount the Y axis to the frame
130
131 3.1 The following parts are used during this step:
132
133 a. The partially-assembled Y axis from step 1.
134 b. The partially assembled frame from step 2.
135 c. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
136
137 3.2 Mounting the Y axis
138
139 * Place the Y axis over the frame so that the Y motor end is toward the
140 rear, and the Z motor brackets are toward the front.
141 * Slide the Y axis along the threaded rods so that there is ** 135mm **
142 from the Y motor end and the frame braces
143 * Tighten the nuts on the first side finger-tight against the frame brace
144 then turn the assembly around and repeat on the other side. Measure a
145 couple times to make sure the distance from the y motor end to the frame
146 braces is the same on each corner. Next slide the Y axis assembly left
147 or right along the lower frame extrusion so that there is ** 50mm **
148 from the upright extrusion to the inner edge of the frame brace on the
149 "left" side of the printer (as viewed with the Y axis idler toward you).
150 * Tighten the frame braces using 8 M5 screws into the T slot nuts that
151 are alread in the lower frame extrusion. Finish tightening the nuts of
152 the threaded rod against the braces, double-checking that the distance
153 from the Y end to the braces is the same on each side. A convenient
154 place to measure this after the nuts are snug is from the inside of the
155 nuts (approx 116mm).
156
157 4. Assemble the X axis (part 1)
158
159 4.1 Gather the following parts:
160
161 a. The two plastic X end pieces ("motor" and "idler")
162 b. Eight linear bearings (LM8UU)
163 c. The two X axis smooth rods
164 d. Two M5 nuts
165
166 4.2 Hardware Assembly
167
168 * Press two linear bearings into each X end.
169 * Using pliers, gently press an M5 nut into the provided insert in each
170 end.
171 * Place two linear bearings on each of the smooth rods.
172 * Press each X end onto the pair of smooth rods, being sure to orient
173 them so that the M5 nuts are on the same side of the rods.
174
175 5. Assembling the frame (part 2)
176
177 5.1 Gather the following:
178
179 a. The two upper Z axis mounts.
180 b. The remaining piece of aluminum extrusion (the top bar)
181 c. Four t-slot nuts
182 d. Five more t-slot nuts if you are going to use the filament holder
183 and SMART electronics mount.
184 e. Four M5 x 8mm screws
185
186 5.2
187
188 * Insert two t-slot nuts into the top side of the aluminum extrusion.
189 * If you will be using the filament holder, rotate the extrusion 90
190 degrees and insert two more t-slot nuts into the top side.
191 * Insert the remaining t-slot nuts into the side opposite from the one
192 you started with.
193
194 5.3
195
196 * Attach the upper Z axis mounts to the ends of the extrusion, tightening
197 the M5 nuts just until snug. Be sure to keep the two t slot nuts for
198 the filament holder on the "top" and the t slot nuts for the SMART
199 electronics mount and filament holder to the back (side away from the
200 rod holders).
201
202 6. Mounting the X axis to the Z axis
203
204 6.1 Gather the following
205
206 a. The partialy assembled frame from step 3.
207 b. The X axis assembly from step 4.
208 c. The upper frame assembly from step 5.
209 d. The remaining two smooth rods
210 e. The Z axis threaded rods (M5)
211 f. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
212 g. Eight M3 x 10mm screws (washers recommended)
213 h. Two Z axis couplers (either 5mm x 5mm couplers or 3/16" vinyl tubing)
214 i. Eight t-slot nuts
215 j. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
216
217 6.2 Mounting the X axis onto the frame.
218
219 * Attach the two Z axis motors to the motor mounts using four M3 x 10mm
220 screws each. Place the z axis couplers on each motor shaft.
221 * Press each Z axis smooth rod firmly down into the rod holder of each motor
222 mount, being careful to keep the rods straight up and down to avoid
223 breaking the mounts.
224 * Gently slide the X axis assembly down over the Z axis rods. If the linear
225 bearings in each X end do not align with the Z axis rods, remove the X
226 axis assembly and gently push/pull the two ends to get the distance right.
227 The motor end of the X axis assembly should be on your left (with the Y
228 idler end toward you).
229 * Insert two t-slot nuts into both the front and back sides of each end (8
230 total). You may want to hold the frame assembly on your lap with the
231 upright extensions horizontally at the point, so that the t slot nuts
232 don't slide down to the botttom of the frame. If they do, simply place
233 your hands over the tops of the extrusions, keeping the z axis smooth
234 rods supported, and tip the assembly over to slide the nuts back toward
235 the top.
236 * Place the upper frame assembly on the frame. Fit the tops of the z axis
237 smooth rods into the rod holders.
238 * Secure the top of the frame using 8 M5 x 8mm screws. Be sure to press
239 the top of the frame down securely onto the vertical extrusions, and
240 then press inward on each top corner to seat the upper extrusion against
241 the sides.
242 * With the X axis assembly resting at the bottom of the Z axis smooth
243 rods, thread the z axis threaded rods down through the nut in each X
244 end until the threaded rods rest against the Z axis motor shafts.
245 * Tighten the z axis couplers.
246
247 7. Completing the Frame Assembly
248
249 7.1 Mount X and Y motors
250
251 * In addition to the frame from the previous step, gather the following:
252
253 a. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
254 b. Two belt pulleys
255 c. The two idler bearings and mounts
256 d. Three M3 x 10mm screws
257 e. Three M3 x 14mm screws
258 f. Two screws with lock nuts for mounting the belt idlers (probably
259 M3 x 25mm)
260
261 * Mount the motors to the X and Y axis motor mounts using three screws
262 each.
263 * Fit a pulley on each motor shaft and tighten the grub screws to keep
264 them secure.
265 * Snap an idler bearing into each pair of plastic bearing guides, then
266 attach the idlers to the opposite ends of the X and Y axis from where
267 you attached the motors. Don't overtighten the screws that hold on
268 the idlers.
269
270 7.2 Attach print bed
271
272 * You will need:
273
274 a. The print bed you prepared earlier.
275 b. Eight M3 x 14mm screws and an equal number of M3 nuts and washers.
276
277 * Mount the print bed to the Y axis bearing holders. The washer should
278 go on the screw first, which should go downward through the wood print
279 bed and bearing holder, and secured with a nut. Attach each screw only
280 loosely first, then check that the bed slides smoothly back and forth
281 along the Y axis. Tighten the nuts a little at a time until secure.
282
283 7.3 Attach the X carriage.
284
285 * You will need:
286
287 a. The printed X carriage
288 b. Eight miniature zip ties
289
290 * Attach the X carriage with the belt guide "up" and with the flat
291 surface (where you will attach the extruder) toward the front of the
292 printer (the Y idler end).
293
294 7.4 Attach Belts
295
296 * You will need:
297
298 a. The X axis drive belt.
299 b. The Y axis drive belt.
300 c. The Y belt holder.
301 d. Two M3 x 20mm screws and nuts.
302 e. 8 Miniature zip ties.
303
304 * Thread the X axis belt into place and secure with four zip ties (two
305 on each side of the extruder, trimmed short after tight).
306 * Turn the printer over or have a friend hold it upside down, being
307 careful not to lift by or put pressure on the X axis rods.
308 * Thread the Y axis belt into place. Hold the belt tight and use as a
309 guide for placing the Y belt holder. The leading edge of the belt
310 holder should be approximately in the middle of the wood print bed.
311 * Mark the holes for the Y belt holder, then set the holder and belt
312 aside and drill the two holes with a 4-5mm hand drill.
313 * Attach the Y belt holder with the head of the screws to the bottom,
314 with a washer and nut on the wood side.
315
316 7.5 Attach accessory mounts
317
318 * You will need:
319 a. Filament holder mounts
320 b. SMART display mounts
321 c. RAMPS electronics frame mount
322 c. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
323
324
325 7.6 Attach heat bed
326
327 * You will need:
328
329 a. The heat bed circuitboard
330 b. Four M3 x 30mm screws and locknuts
331 c. Four springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
332
333 * This is a good time to attach the heat bed thermistor if you have not
334 already done so. Depending on your heat bed and thermistor, the most
335 likely procedure here is to secure the thermistor to the middle of the
336 bottom-side of the heat bed with a strip of Kapton tape.
337 * Attach the heat bed with a screw through each corner, with the head of
338 the screw up, down through the heat bed, through a spring, then through
339 the wood print bed, and into a lock nut. Compress the springs about
340 halfway (you will adjust each corner later to level the bed more
341 precisely).
342
343 7.7 Attach Limit Switches
344
345 * You will need:
346
347 a. Three micro limit switches
348 b. The Z axis limit switch mount
349 c. One T-slot nut and M5 x 8mm screw
350 c. M2 x 16mm screws and nuts as needed (up to 6 each)
351
352 * If your limit switches do not already have wires attached, do that
353 now. You will need approximately 45cm (18") of wire on each switch
354 (depending on where you locate the electronics).
355
356 * Slide a T nut into the outer side of the left upright piece from
357 the bottom. Attach the Z endstop holder with a M5 x 8 screw.
358
359 8. Extruder Assembly and Mounting
360
361 8.1 Assemble the Extruder
362
363 * You will need:
364
365 a. The extruder body and idler.
366 b. The hot end.
367 c. The M8 Hobbed bolt
368 d. Two M8 nuts (or one M8 locknut), and washers (probably 4).
369 e. Two springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
370 f. The M8 x 20mm smooth rod (or M8 x 20mm grub screw)
371 g. Three 608 bearings
372 h. Two M3 x 60mm screws
373 i. The larger extruder gear.
374 j. Three M3 x 30mm screws
375 k. Five M3 nuts
376
377 * If your hot end was not previously assembled (heater resistor and
378 thermistor), do that now. Follow the instructions for your particular
379 hot end.
380 * Slide the M8 x 20mm shaft through a 608 ball bearing then push this
381 assembly inside the extruder idler. You may have to use pliers to snap
382 the shaft into place. Apply even pressure on top of the shaft/bearing
383 to avoid cracking the plastic idler.
384 * Insert an M3 nut into the inner recess provided on the idler. Use
385 pliers or a hot iron to fix the nut into place (be careful not to break
386 the idler in the process).
387 * Thread an M3 x 30mm screw through the outer side of the idler on the
388 side you just inserted the nut, just until the screw starts into the
389 nut.
390 * Fix the idler assembly to the Wade Body Extruder and then finish
391 screwing the M3 x 30 bolt all the way through the fulcrum support.
392
393 * Slide the Wade Big Gear through the hobbed bolt so that the hex head of
394 the bolt is secured in the recess of the big gear. Slide 3-5 M8 washers
395 onto the bolt (they go between the gear and the body of the extruder to
396 provide spacing) followed by one 608 bearing. Insert the bolt into the
397 extruder body, securing the bearing in the hole provided. Add another
398 608 bearing on the loose end of the bolt, followed by another M8 washer
399 and locknut. Tighten the lock nut just enough to keep the hobbed bolt
400 in place; it should spin freely.
401
402 * Insert two M3 nuts in their slots on the top of the extruder body.
403 Place an washer, then spring, then another washer on each M3 x 60mm
404 screw, then thread the screws through the slots of the idler and into
405 the nuts you inserted in the extruder body. Tighten the screws until
406 the springs are well compressed (this keeps tension on the printer
407 filament). If either spring is too short (or the bolts are too long)
408 to compress properly, remove the bolt and place an M3 nut on first
409 (before the washer/springs).
410
411 * Insert the hot end into the 16mm hold on the bottom of the extruder.
412
413 * Secure the hot end to the extruder body by threading in two M3 x 30mm
414 screws through the front of the extruder (they will pinch the sides of
415 the hot end on their way through the plastic body). Secure with M3
416 nuts and tighten well (it is critical that the hot end be rigid and
417 not wobbly).
418
419 8.2 Connecting extruder to X-axis
420
421 * You will need:
422
423 a. Extruder assembly
424 b. Wade Small Gear
425 c. One NEMA 17 motor
426 d. The plastic fan duct.
427 e. One 40mm x 40mm x 10mm fan.
428 f. Four M4 x 25 mm screws
429 g. Four M4 nuts
430 h. One M3 x 20mm screw
431 i. Seven M3 x 14mm screws
432 j. Three M3 washers
433 k. One M3 x 8mm screw
434 l. Five M3 nuts
435 m. One M3 locknut
436
437 * Insert two M4 nuts in the bottom of the extruder body in the slots
438 provided. Use pliers to gently press the nuts into the plastic, or
439 press them in with the tip of a hot soldering iron if the holes are
440 too tight.
441 * Insert two M4 nuts into the slots on the sides of the extruder body.
442 * The extruder is held to the X carriage by the four M4 x 25mm screws.
443 Insert the four screws through the back of the X carriage and then
444 slide on the extruder assembly (thread the top two screws into the
445 nuts you just inserted). Then screw the two lower M4 nuts into
446 place and tighten all four screws.
447 * Insert an M3 nut into the slot on the small gear. Use pliers or a hot
448 iron to press into place if necessary.
449 * Slide the small gear onto the shaft of the NEMA 17 motor. If
450 necessary, drill out the shaft hole on the small gear with a 5mm drill
451 bit.
452 * Insert the M3 x 8mm screw and tighten against the shaft of the motor.
453 * Place the motor assembly against the Wade Extruder Body (supply wires
454 upwards). Insert three M3x14 mm screws and three Ø3 mm washers without
455 tightening. Slide the motor assembly against the Wade Big Gear and
456 tighten the screws to hold the motor secure.
457 * Attach the 40mm fan to the fan duct using four M3 x 14mm screws and
458 M3 nuts. Make sure the fan is oriented so that airflow is going toward
459 the duct (usually this means the side of the fan with a label on it
460 will be against the fan duct).
461 * Fix the Fan Duct assembly on the Wade Extruder Body with an M3 30mm
462 screw and an M3 lock nut. Do not overtighten.
463
464 8.3 Install glass bed
465
466 * Now is a good time to install the glass bed. Place the glass on top
467 of the heat bed and secure with four paper-binder clips. If the X axis
468 is too low, you may have to manually turn the two Z axis rods to lift
469 it high enough so that the glass will fit underneat the hot end nozzle.
470
471 9. Connect the Electronics
472
473 * You will need:
474
475 a. The electronics controller of your choice (e.g. RAMPS)
476 b. The power supply
477 c. SMART display (optional)
478
479 * Use the checklist below as you connect the electronics. If your
480 electronics board has multiple options for connecting devices, make a
481 note of which connection you use so that you can input the settings
482 to your firmware.
483
484 [ ] X axis stepper motor
485 [ ] Y axis stepper motor
486 [ ] Z axis stepper motors (2)
487 [ ] Extruder stepper motor
488 [ ] X axis limit switch
489 [ ] Y axis limit switch
490 [ ] Z axis limit switch
491 [ ] Heat bed power
492 [ ] Extruder heater power
493 [ ] Extruder fan power
494
495
496
497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504