1 Reprap Wilson Assembly Guide
2 Written by Martin Rice <mrice411@gmail.com>
4 + For the latest version of this document, check the "docs" folder at +
5 + https://github.com/mjrice/wilson +
7 + Please refer to the wilson-bom spreedsheet for a comprehensive list of +
8 + parts needed before you begin. +
10 + You will find photos of most of the steps below indexed by the step +
11 + number, located in the images/ folder. +
13 1. Assemble the Y axis (part 1)
15 1.1 Gather the following parts
17 a. The two M10 threaded rods
18 b. The Y axis smooth rods
19 c. The plastic Y end pieces (2)
20 d. The two plastic frame brace supports
21 e. 12 M10 nuts and washers
22 f. Four linear bearings (LM8UU)
26 * Slide a brace support onto each threaded rod. On each side of the
27 supports, put a washer, a nut, another nut and another washer (in
29 * Next, slide two two Y end pieces over the ends of the threaded rods.
30 Place a washer then nut on each end.
32 1.3 Tightening the Y axis
34 * Start at one end (either Y motor or Y idler end) and tighten the two
35 nuts against the end so that the threaded rod is flush with the outside
36 of the nut. Tighten both sides of the first end while everything else
37 is loose along the threaded rods. Use two wrenches to tighten the nuts
38 against the end until snug (tight, but don't compress enough to deform
39 or break the plastic).
40 * Place two linear bearings on each Y axis smooth rod.
41 * Next, with the other Y end still loosely attached, place the two Y axis
42 smooth rods across the top and fit into the grooves along the top of
44 * Press down on the corners (not in the middle of the rods!) to seat the
46 * Tighten one corner of the remaining end.
47 * Now take a moment to measure with a ruler between the end posts of the
48 tightened side. (355mm for reference).
49 * Flip the assembly around and repeat the measurement as you tighten the
50 remaining corner (tighten it just a little first, then measure. If the
51 distance is a little less than the first side, tighten the inner nut
52 outward toward the outer nut, if the distance is a little more than the
53 first side, then tighten the outer nut toward the inner one. Try to get
54 the two sides as close to the same distance as possible. This will help
55 ensure your y axis bearings don't experience any binding forces).
56 * Repeat the measurement on the first side and check that all corners are
57 nice and snug. Take your time on this step, it may require a couple
58 iterations to get the axis square.
60 1.4 Prep the Print Bed
62 While the Y axis assembly is free, it is a good time to prepare the print
63 bed which you will attach later.
65 Gather the following materials
67 a. The Y axis assembly you just completed
68 b. The wood print bed support
70 d. The four linear bearing holders
71 e. Eight miniature zip ties
73 * Place the heat bed circuitboard over the wood bed and mark the four
74 corner locations with a pencil.
75 * Put the heat bed circuitboard aside and place the four linear bearing
76 holders over the linear bearings along the Y axis rods.
77 * Turn the Y axis assembly over so that the smooth rods (and bearing
78 holders) are against the wood print bed surface.
79 * Align the front edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end idler
80 with a line that is 80mm from the front edge of the bed.
81 * Align the back edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end motor
82 mount with a line that is approx 10mm from the back edge of the bed.
83 * Mark all the holes for the bearing holders with a pencil.
84 * Remove the wood print bed and drill all the holes you marked with a 5mm
85 drill bit. (You want the holes a little over-sized so that there is
86 some room for the screws to "float" when you attach the bed).
87 * Attach the linear bearing holders to the Y axis linear bearings with
90 Set the prepared wood print bed aside.
92 2. Assemble the Frame (part 1)
94 2.1 Gather the following parts
96 a. The two side pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the longer ones,
98 b. One of the two horizontal pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the
99 shorter ones, generally)
101 d. 14 M5 x 8mm screws
102 e. The plastic Z motor holders (2)
103 f. The plastic rear frame brackets (2)
105 2.2 Hardware Assembly
107 * Slide 6 T-nuts into one side of the shorter extrusion (this wlll be the
108 bottom piece of the frame).
109 * Turn the extrusion over (being careful not to let the nuts slide out
110 that you just put in) and slide 8 more nuts into the opposite side that
112 * Place the two remaining extrusions to the sides of the first, and slide
113 two T nuts into each on the side facing up.
114 * Get the two corner braces and place one over each corner. Line up the
115 two nuts on each extrusion and attach the braces with a total of 8 M5
116 screws. Note that the longer extrusions (the "sides" of the frame)
117 should cover the ends of the bottom extrusion piece. Leave the screws
118 loose until all 8 are started.
119 * Stand the frame "upright" to ensure the sides are slid down flush with
120 the bottom and alternately tighten until all the screws are tight.
121 * Rotate the frame so the other side is facing you and put it back flat
122 on your work surface.
123 * Slide two more T nuts into each side piece and attach the motor mounts
124 the same way you did the rear brackets, using 6 more M5 screws.
125 * You should have four T nuts sliding around between the lower corners,
126 which will be used to attach the Y axis to the frame in the next step.
129 3. Mount the Y axis to the frame
131 3.1 The following parts are used during this step:
133 a. The partially-assembled Y axis from step 1.
134 b. The partially assembled frame from step 2.
135 c. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
137 3.2 Mounting the Y axis
139 * Place the Y axis over the frame so that the Y motor end is toward the
140 rear, and the Z motor brackets are toward the front.
141 * Slide the Y axis along the threaded rods so that there is ** 135mm **
142 from the Y motor end and the frame braces
143 * Tighten the nuts on the first side finger-tight against the frame brace
144 then turn the assembly around and repeat on the other side. Measure a
145 couple times to make sure the distance from the y motor end to the frame
146 braces is the same on each corner. Next slide the Y axis assembly left
147 or right along the lower frame extrusion so that there is ** 50mm **
148 from the upright extrusion to the inner edge of the frame brace on the
149 "left" side of the printer (as viewed with the Y axis idler toward you).
150 * Tighten the frame braces using 8 M5 screws into the T slot nuts that
151 are alread in the lower frame extrusion. Finish tightening the nuts of
152 the threaded rod against the braces, double-checking that the distance
153 from the Y end to the braces is the same on each side. A convenient
154 place to measure this after the nuts are snug is from the inside of the
157 4. Assemble the X axis (part 1)
159 4.1 Gather the following parts:
161 a. The two plastic X end pieces ("motor" and "idler")
162 b. Eight linear bearings (LM8UU)
163 c. The two X axis smooth rods
165 e. X endstop limit switch
166 f. One M3 x 30mm screw and nut
169 4.2 Hardware Assembly
171 * Press two linear bearings into each X end.
172 * Using pliers, gently press an M5 nut into the provided insert in each
174 * Place two linear bearings on each of the smooth rods.
175 * Insert the X endstop switch (previously wired) into the slot provided
176 on the X motor end. Route the wires down and through the guide on
177 the bottom side of the end. Secure with a zip tie.
178 * Press an M3 nut into the bottom of the Z axis adjuster, then thread
179 an M3 x 30mm screw through a spring and into the nut from the top side.
180 * Press each X end onto the pair of smooth rods, being sure to orient
181 them so that the M5 nuts are on the same side of the rods.
183 5. Assembling the frame (part 2)
185 5.1 Gather the following:
187 a. The two upper Z axis mounts.
188 b. The remaining piece of aluminum extrusion (the top bar)
190 d. Five more t-slot nuts if you are going to use the filament holder
191 and SMART electronics mount.
192 e. Four M5 x 8mm screws
196 * Insert two t-slot nuts into the top side of the aluminum extrusion.
197 * If you will be using the filament holder, rotate the extrusion 90
198 degrees and insert two more t-slot nuts into the top side.
199 * Insert the remaining t-slot nuts into the side opposite from the one
201 * Attach the upper Z axis mounts to the ends of the extrusion, tightening
202 the M5 nuts just until snug. Be sure to keep the two t slot nuts for
203 the filament holder on the "top" and the t slot nuts for the SMART
204 electronics mount and filament holder to the back (side away from the
207 6. Mounting the X axis to the Z axis
209 6.1 Gather the following
211 a. The partialy assembled frame from step 3.
212 b. The X axis assembly from step 4.
213 c. The upper frame assembly from step 5.
214 d. The remaining two smooth rods
215 e. The Z axis threaded rods (M5)
216 f. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
217 g. Eight M3 x 10mm screws (washers recommended)
218 h. Two Z axis couplers (either 5mm x 5mm couplers or 3/16" vinyl tubing)
220 j. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
222 6.2 Mounting the X axis onto the frame.
224 * Attach the two Z axis motors to the motor mounts using four M3 x 10mm
225 screws each. Place the z axis couplers on each motor shaft.
226 * Press each Z axis smooth rod firmly down into the rod holder of each motor
227 mount, being careful to keep the rods straight up and down to avoid
229 * Gently slide the X axis assembly down over the Z axis rods. If the linear
230 bearings in each X end do not align with the Z axis rods, remove the X
231 axis assembly and gently push/pull the two ends to get the distance right.
232 The motor end of the X axis assembly should be on your left (with the Y
233 idler end toward you).
234 * Insert two t-slot nuts into both the front and back sides of each end (8
235 total). You may want to hold the frame assembly on your lap with the
236 upright extensions horizontally at the point, so that the t slot nuts
237 don't slide down to the botttom of the frame. If they do, simply place
238 your hands over the tops of the extrusions, keeping the z axis smooth
239 rods supported, and tip the assembly over to slide the nuts back toward
241 * Place the upper frame assembly on the frame. Fit the tops of the z axis
242 smooth rods into the rod holders.
243 * Secure the top of the frame using 8 M5 x 8mm screws. Be sure to press
244 the top of the frame down securely onto the vertical extrusions, and
245 then press inward on each top corner to seat the upper extrusion against
247 * With the X axis assembly resting at the bottom of the Z axis smooth
248 rods, thread the z axis threaded rods down through the nut in each X
249 end until the threaded rods rest against the Z axis motor shafts.
250 * Tighten the z axis couplers.
252 7. Completing the Frame Assembly
254 7.1 Mount X and Y motors
256 * In addition to the frame from the previous step, gather the following:
258 a. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
260 c. The two idler bearings and plastic bearing guides
261 d. Three M3 x 10mm screws
262 e. Three M3 x 14mm screws
263 f. Two M4 x 20mm screws and nuts
265 * Mount the motors to the X and Y axis motor mounts using three screws
267 * Fit a pulley on each motor shaft and tighten the grub screws to keep
269 * Snap an idler bearing into each pair of plastic bearing guides, then
270 attach the idlers to the opposite ends of the X and Y axis from where
271 you attached the motors. Don't overtighten the screws that hold on
278 a. The print bed you prepared earlier.
279 b. Eight M3 x 14mm screws and an equal number of M3 nuts and washers.
281 * Mount the print bed to the Y axis bearing holders. The washer should
282 go on the screw first, which should go downward through the wood print
283 bed and bearing holder, and secured with a nut. Attach each screw only
284 loosely first, then check that the bed slides smoothly back and forth
285 along the Y axis. Tighten the nuts a little at a time until secure.
287 7.3 Attach the X carriage.
291 a. The printed X carriage
292 b. Eight miniature zip ties
294 * Attach the X carriage with the belt guide "up" and with the flat
295 surface (where you will attach the extruder) toward the front of the
296 printer (the Y idler end).
302 a. The X axis drive belt
303 b. The Y axis drive belt
305 d. 8 Miniature zip ties
307 * Thread the X axis belt into place and secure with four zip ties (two
308 on each side of the extruder, trimmed short after tight).
309 * Turn the printer over or have a friend hold it upside down, being
310 careful not to lift by or put pressure on the X axis rods.
311 * Thread the Y axis belt into place. Hold the belt tight and use as a
312 guide for placing the Y belt holder. The leading edge of the belt
313 holder should be approximately in the middle of the wood print bed.
314 * Mark the holes for the Y belt holder, then set the holder and belt
315 aside and drill the two holes with a 4-5mm hand drill.
316 * Attach the Y belt holder with the head of the screws to the bottom,
317 with a washer and nut on the wood side.
319 7.5 Attach accessory mounts
322 a. Filament holder mounts
323 b. SMART display mounts
324 c. RAMPS electronics frame mount
325 c. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
331 a. The heat bed circuitboard
332 b. Four M3 x 30mm screws and locknuts
333 c. Four springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
335 * This is a good time to attach the heat bed thermistor if you have not
336 already done so. Depending on your heat bed and thermistor, the most
337 likely procedure here is to secure the thermistor to the middle of the
338 bottom-side of the heat bed with a strip of Kapton tape.
339 * Attach the heat bed with a screw through each corner, with the head of
340 the screw up, down through the heat bed, through a spring, then through
341 the wood print bed, and into a lock nut. Compress the springs about
342 halfway (you will adjust each corner later to level the bed more
345 7.7 Attach Limit Switches
349 a. Three micro limit switches
350 b. The Z axis limit switch mount
351 c. One T-slot nut and M5 x 8mm screw
352 c. M2 x 16mm screws and nuts as needed (up to 6 each)
354 * If your limit switches do not already have wires attached, do that
355 now. You will need approximately 45cm (18") of wire on each switch
356 (depending on where you locate the electronics).
358 * Slide a T nut into the outer side of the left upright piece from
359 the bottom. Attach the Z endstop holder with a M5 x 8 screw.
361 8. Extruder Assembly and Mounting
363 8.1 Assemble the Extruder
367 a. The extruder body and idler.
369 c. The M8 Hobbed bolt
370 d. Two M8 nuts (or one M8 locknut), and washers (probably 4).
371 e. Two springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
372 f. The M8 x 20mm smooth rod (or M8 x 20mm grub screw)
373 g. Three 608 bearings
374 h. Two M3 x 60mm screws
375 i. The larger extruder gear.
376 j. Three M3 x 30mm screws
379 * If your hot end was not previously assembled (heater resistor and
380 thermistor), do that now. Follow the instructions for your particular
382 * Slide the M8 x 20mm shaft through a 608 ball bearing then push this
383 assembly inside the extruder idler. You may have to use pliers to snap
384 the shaft into place. Apply even pressure on top of the shaft/bearing
385 to avoid cracking the plastic idler.
386 * Insert an M3 nut into the inner recess provided on the idler. Use
387 pliers or a hot iron to fix the nut into place (be careful not to break
388 the idler in the process).
389 * Thread an M3 x 30mm screw through the outer side of the idler on the
390 side you just inserted the nut, just until the screw starts into the
392 * Fix the idler assembly to the Wade Body Extruder and then finish
393 screwing the M3 x 30 bolt all the way through the fulcrum support.
395 * Slide the Wade Big Gear through the hobbed bolt so that the hex head of
396 the bolt is secured in the recess of the big gear. Slide 3-5 M8 washers
397 onto the bolt (they go between the gear and the body of the extruder to
398 provide spacing) followed by one 608 bearing. Insert the bolt into the
399 extruder body, securing the bearing in the hole provided. Add another
400 608 bearing on the loose end of the bolt, followed by another M8 washer
401 and locknut. Tighten the lock nut just enough to keep the hobbed bolt
402 in place; it should spin freely.
404 * Insert two M3 nuts in their slots on the top of the extruder body.
405 Place an washer, then spring, then another washer on each M3 x 60mm
406 screw, then thread the screws through the slots of the idler and into
407 the nuts you inserted in the extruder body. Tighten the screws until
408 the springs are well compressed (this keeps tension on the printer
409 filament). If either spring is too short (or the bolts are too long)
410 to compress properly, remove the bolt and place an M3 nut on first
411 (before the washer/springs).
413 * Insert the hot end into the 16mm hold on the bottom of the extruder.
415 * Secure the hot end to the extruder body by threading in two M3 x 30mm
416 screws through the front of the extruder (they will pinch the sides of
417 the hot end on their way through the plastic body). Secure with M3
418 nuts and tighten well (it is critical that the hot end be rigid and
421 8.2 Connecting extruder to X-axis
428 d. The plastic fan duct.
429 e. One 40mm x 40mm x 10mm fan.
430 f. Four M4 x 25 mm screws
432 h. One M3 x 30mm screw
433 i. Seven M3 x 14mm screws
435 k. One M3 x 8mm screw
439 * Insert two M4 nuts in the bottom of the extruder body in the slots
440 provided. Use pliers to gently press the nuts into the plastic, or
441 press them in with the tip of a hot soldering iron if the holes are
443 * Insert two M4 nuts into the slots on the sides of the extruder body.
444 * The extruder is held to the X carriage by the four M4 x 25mm screws.
445 Insert the four screws through the back of the X carriage and then
446 slide on the extruder assembly (thread the top two screws into the
447 nuts you just inserted). Then screw the two lower M4 nuts into
448 place and tighten all four screws.
449 * Insert an M3 nut into the slot on the small gear. Use pliers or a hot
450 iron to press into place if necessary.
451 * Slide the small gear onto the shaft of the NEMA 17 motor. If
452 necessary, drill out the shaft hole on the small gear with a 5mm drill
454 * Insert the M3 x 8mm screw and tighten against the shaft of the motor.
455 * Place the motor assembly against the Wade Extruder Body (supply wires
456 upwards). Insert three M3x14 mm screws and three Ø3 mm washers without
457 tightening. Slide the motor assembly against the Wade Big Gear and
458 tighten the screws to hold the motor secure.
459 * Attach the 40mm fan to the fan duct using four M3 x 14mm screws and
460 M3 nuts. Make sure the fan is oriented so that airflow is going toward
461 the duct (usually this means the side of the fan with a label on it
462 will be against the fan duct).
463 * Fix the Fan Duct assembly on the Wade Extruder Body with an M3 30mm
464 screw and an M3 lock nut. Do not overtighten.
466 8.3 Install glass bed
468 * Now is a good time to install the glass bed. Place the glass on top
469 of the heat bed and secure with four paper-binder clips. If the X axis
470 is too low, you may have to manually turn the two Z axis rods to lift
471 it high enough so that the glass will fit underneat the hot end nozzle.
473 9. Connect the Electronics
477 a. The electronics controller of your choice (e.g. RAMPS)
479 c. SMART display (optional)
481 * Use the checklist below as you connect the electronics. If your
482 electronics board has multiple options for connecting devices, make a
483 note of which connection you use so that you can input the settings
486 [ ] X axis stepper motor
487 [ ] Y axis stepper motor
488 [ ] Z axis stepper motors (2)
489 [ ] Extruder stepper motor
490 [ ] X axis limit switch
491 [ ] Y axis limit switch
492 [ ] Z axis limit switch
494 [ ] Extruder heater power
495 [ ] Extruder fan power