54331415d707808488039be28d7ffe4fe67b9b9d
[clinton/wilson.git] / doc / how-to-build.txt
1 Reprap Wilson Assembly Guide
2 Written by Martin Rice <mrice411@gmail.com>
3
4 + For the latest version of this document, check the "docs" folder at +
5 + https://github.com/mjrice/wilson +
6 + +
7 + Please refer to the wilson-bom spreedsheet for a comprehensive list of +
8 + parts needed before you begin. +
9 + +
10 + You will find photos of most of the steps below indexed by the step +
11 + number, located in the images/ folder. +
12
13 1. Assemble the Y axis (part 1)
14
15 1.1 Gather the following parts
16
17 a. The two M10 threaded rods
18 b. The Y axis smooth rods
19 c. The plastic Y end pieces (2)
20 d. The two plastic frame brace supports
21 e. 12 M10 nuts and washers
22 f. Four linear bearings (LM8UU)
23
24 1.2 Hardware Assembly
25
26 * Slide a brace support onto each threaded rod. On each side of the
27 supports, put a washer, a nut, another nut and another washer (in
28 that order).
29 * Next, slide two two Y end pieces over the ends of the threaded rods.
30 Place a washer then nut on each end.
31
32 1.3 Tightening the Y axis
33
34 * Start at one end (either Y motor or Y idler end) and tighten the two
35 nuts against the end so that the threaded rod is flush with the outside
36 of the nut. Tighten both sides of the first end while everything else
37 is loose along the threaded rods. Use two wrenches to tighten the nuts
38 against the end until snug (tight, but don't compress enough to deform
39 or break the plastic).
40 * Place two linear bearings on each Y axis smooth rod.
41 * Next, with the other Y end still loosely attached, place the two Y axis
42 smooth rods across the top and fit into the grooves along the top of
43 the ends.
44 * Press down on the corners (not in the middle of the rods!) to seat the
45 rods into the Y ends.
46 * Tighten one corner of the remaining end.
47 * Now take a moment to measure with a ruler between the end posts of the
48 tightened side. (355mm for reference).
49 * Flip the assembly around and repeat the measurement as you tighten the
50 remaining corner (tighten it just a little first, then measure. If the
51 distance is a little less than the first side, tighten the inner nut
52 outward toward the outer nut, if the distance is a little more than the
53 first side, then tighten the outer nut toward the inner one. Try to get
54 the two sides as close to the same distance as possible. This will help
55 ensure your y axis bearings don't experience any binding forces).
56 * Repeat the measurement on the first side and check that all corners are
57 nice and snug. Take your time on this step, it may require a couple
58 iterations to get the axis square.
59
60 1.4 Prep the Print Bed
61
62 While the Y axis assembly is free, it is a good time to prepare the print
63 bed which you will attach later.
64
65 Gather the following materials
66
67 a. The Y axis assembly you just completed
68 b. The wood print bed support
69 c. The heat bed
70 d. The four linear bearing holders
71 e. Eight miniature zip ties
72
73 * Place the heat bed circuitboard over the wood bed and mark the four
74 corner locations with a pencil.
75 * Put the heat bed circuitboard aside and place the four linear bearing
76 holders over the linear bearings along the Y axis rods.
77 * Turn the Y axis assembly over so that the smooth rods (and bearing
78 holders) are against the wood print bed surface.
79 * Align the front edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end idler
80 with a line that is 80mm from the front edge of the bed.
81 * Align the back edge of the two bearing holders nearest the Y end motor
82 mount with a line that is approx 10mm from the back edge of the bed.
83 * Mark all the holes for the bearing holders with a pencil.
84 * Remove the wood print bed and drill all the holes you marked with a 5mm
85 drill bit. (You want the holes a little over-sized so that there is
86 some room for the screws to "float" when you attach the bed).
87 * Attach the linear bearing holders to the Y axis linear bearings with
88 zip ties.
89
90 Set the prepared wood print bed aside.
91
92 2. Assemble the Frame (part 1)
93
94 2.1 Gather the following parts
95
96 a. The two side pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the longer ones,
97 generally)
98 b. One of the two horizontal pieces of 2020 aluminum extrusion (the
99 shorter ones, generally)
100 c. 22 T-slot nuts
101 d. 14 M5 x 8mm screws
102 e. The plastic Z motor holders (2)
103 f. The plastic rear frame brackets (2)
104
105 2.2 Hardware Assembly
106
107 * Slide 6 T-nuts into one side of the shorter extrusion (this wlll be the
108 bottom piece of the frame).
109 * Turn the extrusion over (being careful not to let the nuts slide out
110 that you just put in) and slide 8 more nuts into the opposite side that
111 you begain with.
112 * Place the two remaining extrusions to the sides of the first, and slide
113 two T nuts into each on the side facing up.
114 * Get the two corner braces and place one over each corner. Line up the
115 two nuts on each extrusion and attach the braces with a total of 8 M5
116 screws. Note that the longer extrusions (the "sides" of the frame)
117 should cover the ends of the bottom extrusion piece. Leave the screws
118 loose until all 8 are started.
119 * Stand the frame "upright" to ensure the sides are slid down flush with
120 the bottom and alternately tighten until all the screws are tight.
121 * Rotate the frame so the other side is facing you and put it back flat
122 on your work surface.
123 * Slide two more T nuts into each side piece and attach the motor mounts
124 the same way you did the rear brackets, using 6 more M5 screws.
125 * You should have four T nuts sliding around between the lower corners,
126 which will be used to attach the Y axis to the frame in the next step.
127
128
129 3. Mount the Y axis to the frame
130
131 3.1 The following parts are used during this step:
132
133 a. The partially-assembled Y axis from step 1.
134 b. The partially assembled frame from step 2.
135 c. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
136
137 3.2 Mounting the Y axis
138
139 * Place the Y axis over the frame so that the Y motor end is toward the
140 rear, and the Z motor brackets are toward the front.
141 * Slide the Y axis along the threaded rods so that there is ** 135mm **
142 from the Y motor end and the frame braces
143 * Tighten the nuts on the first side finger-tight against the frame brace
144 then turn the assembly around and repeat on the other side. Measure a
145 couple times to make sure the distance from the y motor end to the frame
146 braces is the same on each corner. Next slide the Y axis assembly left
147 or right along the lower frame extrusion so that there is ** 50mm **
148 from the upright extrusion to the inner edge of the frame brace on the
149 "left" side of the printer (as viewed with the Y axis idler toward you).
150 * Tighten the frame braces using 8 M5 screws into the T slot nuts that
151 are alread in the lower frame extrusion. Finish tightening the nuts of
152 the threaded rod against the braces, double-checking that the distance
153 from the Y end to the braces is the same on each side. A convenient
154 place to measure this after the nuts are snug is from the inside of the
155 nuts (approx 116mm).
156
157 4. Assemble the X axis (part 1)
158
159 4.1 Gather the following parts:
160
161 a. The two plastic X end pieces ("motor" and "idler")
162 b. Eight linear bearings (LM8UU)
163 c. The two X axis smooth rods
164 d. Two M5 nuts
165
166 4.2 Hardware Assembly
167
168 * Press two linear bearings into each X end.
169 * Using pliers, gently press an M5 nut into the provided insert in each
170 end.
171 * Place two linear bearings on each of the smooth rods.
172 * Press each X end onto the pair of smooth rods, being sure to orient
173 them so that the M5 nuts are on the same side of the rods.
174
175 5. Assembling the frame (part 2)
176
177 5.1 Gather the following:
178
179 a. The two upper Z axis mounts.
180 b. The remaining piece of aluminum extrusion (the top bar)
181 c. Four t-slot nuts
182 d. Five more t-slot nuts if you are going to use the filament holder
183 and SMART electronics mount.
184 e. Four M5 x 8mm screws
185
186 5.2 Assembly
187
188 * Insert two t-slot nuts into the top side of the aluminum extrusion.
189 * If you will be using the filament holder, rotate the extrusion 90
190 degrees and insert two more t-slot nuts into the top side.
191 * Insert the remaining t-slot nuts into the side opposite from the one
192 you started with.
193 * Attach the upper Z axis mounts to the ends of the extrusion, tightening
194 the M5 nuts just until snug. Be sure to keep the two t slot nuts for
195 the filament holder on the "top" and the t slot nuts for the SMART
196 electronics mount and filament holder to the back (side away from the
197 rod holders).
198
199 6. Mounting the X axis to the Z axis
200
201 6.1 Gather the following
202
203 a. The partialy assembled frame from step 3.
204 b. The X axis assembly from step 4.
205 c. The upper frame assembly from step 5.
206 d. The remaining two smooth rods
207 e. The Z axis threaded rods (M5)
208 f. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
209 g. Eight M3 x 10mm screws (washers recommended)
210 h. Two Z axis couplers (either 5mm x 5mm couplers or 3/16" vinyl tubing)
211 i. Eight t-slot nuts
212 j. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
213
214 6.2 Mounting the X axis onto the frame.
215
216 * Attach the two Z axis motors to the motor mounts using four M3 x 10mm
217 screws each. Place the z axis couplers on each motor shaft.
218 * Press each Z axis smooth rod firmly down into the rod holder of each motor
219 mount, being careful to keep the rods straight up and down to avoid
220 breaking the mounts.
221 * Gently slide the X axis assembly down over the Z axis rods. If the linear
222 bearings in each X end do not align with the Z axis rods, remove the X
223 axis assembly and gently push/pull the two ends to get the distance right.
224 The motor end of the X axis assembly should be on your left (with the Y
225 idler end toward you).
226 * Insert two t-slot nuts into both the front and back sides of each end (8
227 total). You may want to hold the frame assembly on your lap with the
228 upright extensions horizontally at the point, so that the t slot nuts
229 don't slide down to the botttom of the frame. If they do, simply place
230 your hands over the tops of the extrusions, keeping the z axis smooth
231 rods supported, and tip the assembly over to slide the nuts back toward
232 the top.
233 * Place the upper frame assembly on the frame. Fit the tops of the z axis
234 smooth rods into the rod holders.
235 * Secure the top of the frame using 8 M5 x 8mm screws. Be sure to press
236 the top of the frame down securely onto the vertical extrusions, and
237 then press inward on each top corner to seat the upper extrusion against
238 the sides.
239 * With the X axis assembly resting at the bottom of the Z axis smooth
240 rods, thread the z axis threaded rods down through the nut in each X
241 end until the threaded rods rest against the Z axis motor shafts.
242 * Tighten the z axis couplers.
243
244 7. Completing the Frame Assembly
245
246 7.1 Mount X and Y motors
247
248 * In addition to the frame from the previous step, gather the following:
249
250 a. Two NEMA17 stepper motors
251 b. Two belt pulleys
252 c. The two idler bearings and plastic bearing guides
253 d. Three M3 x 10mm screws
254 e. Three M3 x 14mm screws
255 f. Two M4 x 20mm screws and nuts
256
257 * Mount the motors to the X and Y axis motor mounts using three screws
258 each.
259 * Fit a pulley on each motor shaft and tighten the grub screws to keep
260 them secure.
261 * Snap an idler bearing into each pair of plastic bearing guides, then
262 attach the idlers to the opposite ends of the X and Y axis from where
263 you attached the motors. Don't overtighten the screws that hold on
264 the idlers.
265
266 7.2 Attach print bed
267
268 * You will need:
269
270 a. The print bed you prepared earlier.
271 b. Eight M3 x 14mm screws and an equal number of M3 nuts and washers.
272
273 * Mount the print bed to the Y axis bearing holders. The washer should
274 go on the screw first, which should go downward through the wood print
275 bed and bearing holder, and secured with a nut. Attach each screw only
276 loosely first, then check that the bed slides smoothly back and forth
277 along the Y axis. Tighten the nuts a little at a time until secure.
278
279 7.3 Attach the X carriage.
280
281 * You will need:
282
283 a. The printed X carriage
284 b. Eight miniature zip ties
285
286 * Attach the X carriage with the belt guide "up" and with the flat
287 surface (where you will attach the extruder) toward the front of the
288 printer (the Y idler end).
289
290 7.4 Attach Belts
291
292 * You will need:
293
294 a. The X axis drive belt
295 b. The Y axis drive belt
296 c. The Y belt holder
297 d. 8 Miniature zip ties
298
299 * Thread the X axis belt into place and secure with four zip ties (two
300 on each side of the extruder, trimmed short after tight).
301 * Turn the printer over or have a friend hold it upside down, being
302 careful not to lift by or put pressure on the X axis rods.
303 * Thread the Y axis belt into place. Hold the belt tight and use as a
304 guide for placing the Y belt holder. The leading edge of the belt
305 holder should be approximately in the middle of the wood print bed.
306 * Mark the holes for the Y belt holder, then set the holder and belt
307 aside and drill the two holes with a 4-5mm hand drill.
308 * Attach the Y belt holder with the head of the screws to the bottom,
309 with a washer and nut on the wood side.
310
311 7.5 Attach accessory mounts
312
313 * You will need:
314 a. Filament holder mounts
315 b. SMART display mounts
316 c. RAMPS electronics frame mount
317 c. Eight M5 x 8mm screws
318
319 7.6 Attach heat bed
320
321 * You will need:
322
323 a. The heat bed circuitboard
324 b. Four M3 x 30mm screws and locknuts
325 c. Four springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
326
327 * This is a good time to attach the heat bed thermistor if you have not
328 already done so. Depending on your heat bed and thermistor, the most
329 likely procedure here is to secure the thermistor to the middle of the
330 bottom-side of the heat bed with a strip of Kapton tape.
331 * Attach the heat bed with a screw through each corner, with the head of
332 the screw up, down through the heat bed, through a spring, then through
333 the wood print bed, and into a lock nut. Compress the springs about
334 halfway (you will adjust each corner later to level the bed more
335 precisely).
336
337 7.7 Attach Limit Switches
338
339 * You will need:
340
341 a. Three micro limit switches
342 b. The Z axis limit switch mount
343 c. One T-slot nut and M5 x 8mm screw
344 c. M2 x 16mm screws and nuts as needed (up to 6 each)
345
346 * If your limit switches do not already have wires attached, do that
347 now. You will need approximately 45cm (18") of wire on each switch
348 (depending on where you locate the electronics).
349
350 * Slide a T nut into the outer side of the left upright piece from
351 the bottom. Attach the Z endstop holder with a M5 x 8 screw.
352
353 8. Extruder Assembly and Mounting
354
355 8.1 Assemble the Extruder
356
357 * You will need:
358
359 a. The extruder body and idler.
360 b. The hot end.
361 c. The M8 Hobbed bolt
362 d. Two M8 nuts (or one M8 locknut), and washers (probably 4).
363 e. Two springs (approx 1" long uncompressed)
364 f. The M8 x 20mm smooth rod (or M8 x 20mm grub screw)
365 g. Three 608 bearings
366 h. Two M3 x 60mm screws
367 i. The larger extruder gear.
368 j. Three M3 x 30mm screws
369 k. Five M3 nuts
370
371 * If your hot end was not previously assembled (heater resistor and
372 thermistor), do that now. Follow the instructions for your particular
373 hot end.
374 * Slide the M8 x 20mm shaft through a 608 ball bearing then push this
375 assembly inside the extruder idler. You may have to use pliers to snap
376 the shaft into place. Apply even pressure on top of the shaft/bearing
377 to avoid cracking the plastic idler.
378 * Insert an M3 nut into the inner recess provided on the idler. Use
379 pliers or a hot iron to fix the nut into place (be careful not to break
380 the idler in the process).
381 * Thread an M3 x 30mm screw through the outer side of the idler on the
382 side you just inserted the nut, just until the screw starts into the
383 nut.
384 * Fix the idler assembly to the Wade Body Extruder and then finish
385 screwing the M3 x 30 bolt all the way through the fulcrum support.
386
387 * Slide the Wade Big Gear through the hobbed bolt so that the hex head of
388 the bolt is secured in the recess of the big gear. Slide 3-5 M8 washers
389 onto the bolt (they go between the gear and the body of the extruder to
390 provide spacing) followed by one 608 bearing. Insert the bolt into the
391 extruder body, securing the bearing in the hole provided. Add another
392 608 bearing on the loose end of the bolt, followed by another M8 washer
393 and locknut. Tighten the lock nut just enough to keep the hobbed bolt
394 in place; it should spin freely.
395
396 * Insert two M3 nuts in their slots on the top of the extruder body.
397 Place an washer, then spring, then another washer on each M3 x 60mm
398 screw, then thread the screws through the slots of the idler and into
399 the nuts you inserted in the extruder body. Tighten the screws until
400 the springs are well compressed (this keeps tension on the printer
401 filament). If either spring is too short (or the bolts are too long)
402 to compress properly, remove the bolt and place an M3 nut on first
403 (before the washer/springs).
404
405 * Insert the hot end into the 16mm hold on the bottom of the extruder.
406
407 * Secure the hot end to the extruder body by threading in two M3 x 30mm
408 screws through the front of the extruder (they will pinch the sides of
409 the hot end on their way through the plastic body). Secure with M3
410 nuts and tighten well (it is critical that the hot end be rigid and
411 not wobbly).
412
413 8.2 Connecting extruder to X-axis
414
415 * You will need:
416
417 a. Extruder assembly
418 b. Wade Small Gear
419 c. One NEMA 17 motor
420 d. The plastic fan duct.
421 e. One 40mm x 40mm x 10mm fan.
422 f. Four M4 x 25 mm screws
423 g. Four M4 nuts
424 h. One M3 x 30mm screw
425 i. Seven M3 x 14mm screws
426 j. Three M3 washers
427 k. One M3 x 8mm screw
428 l. Five M3 nuts
429 m. One M3 locknut
430
431 * Insert two M4 nuts in the bottom of the extruder body in the slots
432 provided. Use pliers to gently press the nuts into the plastic, or
433 press them in with the tip of a hot soldering iron if the holes are
434 too tight.
435 * Insert two M4 nuts into the slots on the sides of the extruder body.
436 * The extruder is held to the X carriage by the four M4 x 25mm screws.
437 Insert the four screws through the back of the X carriage and then
438 slide on the extruder assembly (thread the top two screws into the
439 nuts you just inserted). Then screw the two lower M4 nuts into
440 place and tighten all four screws.
441 * Insert an M3 nut into the slot on the small gear. Use pliers or a hot
442 iron to press into place if necessary.
443 * Slide the small gear onto the shaft of the NEMA 17 motor. If
444 necessary, drill out the shaft hole on the small gear with a 5mm drill
445 bit.
446 * Insert the M3 x 8mm screw and tighten against the shaft of the motor.
447 * Place the motor assembly against the Wade Extruder Body (supply wires
448 upwards). Insert three M3x14 mm screws and three Ø3 mm washers without
449 tightening. Slide the motor assembly against the Wade Big Gear and
450 tighten the screws to hold the motor secure.
451 * Attach the 40mm fan to the fan duct using four M3 x 14mm screws and
452 M3 nuts. Make sure the fan is oriented so that airflow is going toward
453 the duct (usually this means the side of the fan with a label on it
454 will be against the fan duct).
455 * Fix the Fan Duct assembly on the Wade Extruder Body with an M3 30mm
456 screw and an M3 lock nut. Do not overtighten.
457
458 8.3 Install glass bed
459
460 * Now is a good time to install the glass bed. Place the glass on top
461 of the heat bed and secure with four paper-binder clips. If the X axis
462 is too low, you may have to manually turn the two Z axis rods to lift
463 it high enough so that the glass will fit underneat the hot end nozzle.
464
465 9. Connect the Electronics
466
467 * You will need:
468
469 a. The electronics controller of your choice (e.g. RAMPS)
470 b. The power supply
471 c. SMART display (optional)
472
473 * Use the checklist below as you connect the electronics. If your
474 electronics board has multiple options for connecting devices, make a
475 note of which connection you use so that you can input the settings
476 to your firmware.
477
478 [ ] X axis stepper motor
479 [ ] Y axis stepper motor
480 [ ] Z axis stepper motors (2)
481 [ ] Extruder stepper motor
482 [ ] X axis limit switch
483 [ ] Y axis limit switch
484 [ ] Z axis limit switch
485 [ ] Heat bed power
486 [ ] Extruder heater power
487 [ ] Extruder fan power
488
489
490
491
492
493
494
495
496
497
498